
Jainism is one of India’s oldest religious traditions, developing alongside the ancient Hindu and Buddhist traditions. At its heart is a profound commitment to non-violence, self-discipline and renunciation, with the belief that liberation can be achieved by overcoming attachment, desire and the physical senses. The word ‘Jain’ derives from the Sanskrit ji, meaning ‘to conquer’ – in this context, to conquer one’s own passions and desires rather than others.
Jains look to 24 enlightened teachers, known as Tirthankaras or ‘Jinas’, as spiritual guides and role models. Having overcome the cycle of birth and rebirth and attained liberation, the Tirthankaras show the path that Jains seek to follow. Their teachings place particular emphasis on living with compassion, restraint and respect for all forms of life.
A central Jain principle is expressed in the motto Parasparopagraho Jīvānām, often translated as ‘souls render service to one another’. Devout Jains traditionally observe five principal vows: ahiṃsā (non-violence), satya (truthfulness), asteya (non-stealing), brahmacharya (celibacy or sexual restraint) and aparigraha (non-attachment to possessions). This profound commitment to non-violence has had a wider influence in India, most famously on Mahatma Gandhi, whose philosophy of ahimsa was shaped in part by Jain ideas and practices.
You will encounter Jainism at the extraordinary temples of Ranakpur, constructed in the 15th century and among the finest examples of Jain architecture in India. The temples are celebrated for their extraordinary marble carvings, which reveal the remarkable skill and patience of Rajasthani craftsmen more than 600 years ago.
At the heart of the complex is the magnificent Chaumukha Temple, dedicated to Adinath, the first Tirthankara. Its intricate architecture encompasses numerous halls, domes and hundreds of beautifully carved columns. Look closely and you will discover that no two columns are exactly alike, each carrying its own distinctive pattern and decoration. The sheer intricacy of the carving, combined with the extraordinary scale of the temple, makes this one of the most memorable architectural experiences in Rajasthan.
Yet perhaps the most rewarding way to understand Jainism is to experience something of its living traditions. In the peaceful surroundings of Ranakpur, you can join Jain pilgrims for lunch and gain a first-hand insight into the principles that shape everyday Jain life. Strict vegetarianism is central to Jain practice, reflecting the religion’s deep commitment to avoiding harm to living beings.
Lunch is a delicious traditional thali, made up of a variety of different dishes and traditionally eaten with the right hand. Food is shared and passed around, creating an informal and wonderfully convivial experience. There is an important Jain principle at play here too: food is treated with respect, and wasting it is discouraged.
It is a wonderfully simple experience, but one that stays with you. You leave Ranakpur with a greater understanding of Jain philosophy and the people who practise it, as well as a memorable taste of one of India’s most distinctive and peaceful religious traditions – and, hopefully, a little more food for thought as well as a very full stomach.
Words: Katy Landles @katylandles_art.
